Feb 26 2009

First night in a Jungle

I have spent a lot of time in the deserts, and would typically consider that environment as the one I most often gravitate towards. The vast, open spaces and the massive dunes, the flora and fauna clinging to a fragile balance of life.  However, over the past few years, I have had this pull towards “La Jungla” (Jungle in Spanish), no doubt inspired by my collection of Camel Trophy videos and near lifetime of reading National Geographic.  

 

The jungles have three compelling reasons for a visit: 1. Intense concentration of flora and fauna, most of which I have never seen in person (outside of a zoo), 2.  Access to Maya and other ancient peoples historic building and artifacts. 3. The potential for some very serious tracks to get back to 1 and 2.

 

Just a few days ago, we arrived in the Mexico state of Campeche, and the beginning of the jungle regions of Mexico.  Due to some unfortunate traffic delays, we missed our first scheduled jungle camp near Varacruz, and ended up sleeping in an “interesting” hotel (more on that in another post). One of the Mayan ruins I was most interested in seeing was Calakmul, a UNESCO world heritage site, and interestingly, the major Mayan rival to Tikal, which is located in Guatemala and a site we will be visiting as we continue our trip.  Calakmul has one significant advantage, and that is its remote location.  Only 30km from the Guatemalan border, and accessible only by a 62km long, one-way, one-lane road into the jungle.  This keeps nearly everyone out, and we had the kingdom of the serpents head all to ourselves.  This site is mostly, but not completely uncovered, and volunteers are still finding stella and structures. Most of the buildings have only been lightly repaired, and trees grow from the steps of the massive pyramids. Several of the pyramids stand above the jungle canopy, revealing incredible views in every direction, and no modern structures are visible, not even a radio tower. 

After trekking through the site, we made camp in a small area of the overflow parking (all dirt and in the trees), and popped the top of the EarthRoamer.  We were completely alone, and made a fantastic diner, opened my best bottle of wine (saved for this occasion), and took in the sounds of the jungle.  Within a few hours of darkness, the jungle became completely silent, and we had our best sleep of the trip.  It is good to be in the jungle…